What I do to adjust a reed is if it's too resistant, I check the whole spine, especially toward the shoulder. Then I see if the bump toward the tip is too pronounced. (I use what's called a "chisel tip" with a thin tip for response, and wood behind the tip to take out the buzz, and also to give it support.)
Then I check for throat roundness. Too round means too stiff. Too flat is too weak. Like a bird's egg, which can be sat on without breaking, yet a baby bird can get through from the weak side (outward from the arch) - the arch of a reed is critically important. This also shows that air pressure inside the reed is more important than biting down outside the reed. In this context, biting is totally futile. So make sure the throat support is right for you.
After that, all scraping is done around the tip area. Sort of rounding the chisel. Check the tip for evenness. Almost always, there is one corner pushing (overpowering) its opposite blade. Scrape the strong side. Never scrape in general. Always scrape in terms of balancing as you go.
When a reed is a few days old, it's safe to scrape the tip as thin as you feel it should be. Make sure the tip is even.