1. What is the advantage of using beeswax in the wrapping process?
Beeswaxed string for binding the cane to the staple has two advantages over string that is not beeswaxed. First, it strengthens the thread, thus reducing the possibility of breakage, and second, it lessens the danger of slipping of the string (not really a great problem in most cases). For those who use nail polish after tying, I would suggest trying beeswax; it eliminates the drying period so that one can begin scraping immediately-- another advantage.
2. Why do E's and F's drop the octave on loud attacks?
E's and F's may drop the octave on loud attacks if one is not preparing and/or supporting properly -- or perhaps there is simply water in the octave key. Some "cheapie" oboes are improperly bored so that first octave key notes do not speak readily. I find that this problem has little to do with reeds.
3. Do you clip tips so one blade is slightly longer than the other? If so, what is the advantage?
Yes. It is a slight advantage in promoting stability, probably because of the natural overbite most people have: the lips can form more easily. I therefore usually play with the shorter blade down, but not always!
4. What causes reeds to open on the sides near the tip? Is there a cure for this problem?
We must keep in mind that every cause has its effect. One must always tell oneself that there must be a solution! And so there almost always is. There can be several causes of this problem. It is possible that the tube of cane was not straight to begin with. I always check this before guillotining and pre-gouging by setting the cane on the edge of a table top and sighting along it with a strong light in back. It is still possible to check this with cane that is already gouged. An uneven shape can cause this problem also. l suspect that the most frequent cause is an improper relation between the width of the shape at the bottom and the staple--or perhaps over--or undertying. When tying, be sure that the thread binds the cane firmly to the tube and that the last wind of thread and the end of the staple coincide exactly. Also, be sure that the sides of the cane just come together tightly without leakage while fulfilling the other two requirements. If the sides of cane come together too soon, they may cause a bunching effect which might spread the blades apart near the tip. A gap between the two blades might also be caused by scraping too much off the very sides to the extent of changing the shape.
5. Is there any harm in keeping reeds constantly moist--especially in a cold dry climate?
No--but I think reeds will last longer if allowed to dry completely--in any climate. Given a cold, dry northern winter, however, reeds often close up too much. If possible, try to maintain a constant humidity of at least 50% where reeds (and instrument) are kept and most often used. l don't care for the dampit approach, but many people us it. I prefer dealing with the room: grow plants, simmer pans of water, etc. Further, I use a slightly smaller diameter tube of cane during the winter months--in upstate New York, it helps!
6. Why do reeds tend to split if you play on them as they are drying out, when they seldom do if you play them before they are fully soaked?
I find playing on semi-dry reeds risky in either circumstance.
7. How do you suggest cleaning reeds? Have you any other thoughts on prolonging their usefulness?
When a reed needs cleaning I throw it away and make a new one! If you're desperate, clean the upper parts of each blade by inserting a smooth plaque from the side and lightly scraping the inside of each blade. I don't like to use a pipe cleaner for this purpose (too rough and fuzzy)--except to clean the staple only.
8. What causes "chirpy" attacks?
Reeds with "mice" in them probably have tips which are too thin. Clipping sometimes helps.