REED LORE


  1. Will Jansen, (Holland). a) Know your instrument thoroughly; know exactly how it responds to staccato, to large intervals played legato and how it responds - the whole compass up and down - to ppp and fff blowing. b) Try to get good reed cane; not "the best", because what is the best and where does THAT grow? c) Use few tools; to make a good reed you don't need an assortment of hardware making your table look like the operating room in a hospital. Scraping a reed with only one but GOOD knife does more than scraping it with twelve different ones that are less good. Simplicity is the hallmark of the right. d) Have patience;- when you finish a reed, you start by taking off too little; removing too little twenty times brings the reed near the point of perfection. At this moment, be careful; because next you're taking off too much! e) If you have finally found a good type of reed, stick to it. f) If you have to play a lot of modem stuff, written actually in the compass of an oboe because the modem composer does riot know the difference between a bassoon and an ocarina, as is usual these days, do not try to get this extra "height",,, by making hard reeds. Use another number of bocal, if possible. g) a normal reed, free-blown, should sound somewhere between middle f sharp and a.
  2. Louis Skinner, (Fawn Grove, Pennsylvania). a) The reed and crook in combination should sound at least as high as piano middle c (c - 256) to generate a high enough pitch into the bassoon. If not, you will pinch the reed to make it sound higher, thereby squeezing off some of the fundamental of the bassoon tone. b) If the thickness of your gouge is consistent, use a small pair of outside calipers to gauge the height of your reed collar elevation on each reed. By subtracting the gouge thickness twice (for each side of reed) you will determine the exact inside height of the reed at that point (preferably just in front of wire 1, if you have a slight collar before the scrape). Constructing the same model reed and maintaining the same inside collar height will give more consistent tone quality and intonation.
  3. Gerald Corey, (Baltimore). a) To easily shorten the length of a stick of gouged cane (shaped or not), use a pair of sharp curved-blade pruning shears. If right-handed, hold the cane bark down and the shears "right side up" (cutting edge descending). Cut off the unwanted portion from the right end of the stick (all cracking goes to the right also, making a clean slice, even with dry cane). Smooth edge with emery board. If you are left-handed, reverse the procedure above (shears will be upside down - cutting blade ascending). b) If your reed case has only a bent wire to hold each reed, add a metal tube (for mandrel) to avoid having the tube section of the reed go out of round while drying. In the US., go to a large stationery supplier and ask for Chicago ring post binders. You need the 3/8 inch length and only the female half, and the tube fits over your wire holder in reed case. If tube is slightly too large, file it down to fit your reed.

Table of Contents