From Karl Almenraeder to Don Christlieb, many reedmakers have stressed the importance of evenly and carefully forming the cane tube around the mandrel. Pitfalls avoided are unequal stresses in the separate reed blades and dangerous cracking of the cane beyond wire I. The advantages well-known - are most efficient air flow, best tone quality and intonation, and easier trimming from blank to finished performing reed. Almost any careful method, especially those using warm water or a heated mandrel, will give beautiful results, as attested to by the reeds I have examined made by well and little-known bassoonists in the U.S. and in Europe.
A method (not necessarily new, but one well thought-out) now used by Frank Marcus of Toronto, Canada, gives such consistent and excellent results with a minimum of fuss or anxiety that he would like to share it with bassoonists. Mr. Marcus has just been graduated from the Toronto University School of Music (formerly Royal Conservatory). I am proud to have been his teacher briefly a few years ago when I played in Vancouver, Canada.
Tools needed: 1) a large kettle, producing a strong flow of steam. (electric is best - add an on-off switch.) 2) a pointed awl-type tool - 5 1/2 inches long. Diameter of the steel rod is 3/ 16 inch (not larger). Grind two flat tapers, top and bottom, from the point back to a spot one inch behind the point. Make an insertion stop mark 1 1/2 inches behind the point. (see illustration).
(3) your normal short mandrel, which will hold the reed later. (4) soft "butcher twine" cord - used in steaming. (5) 1/32-inch strong nylon cord. (6) holding pliers (5" or 6" parallel-action type preferred). (7) a whiskey or "shot" glass, for water.
1. Bring steam kettle to within about three minutes of full steam flow.
2. Have profiled cane ready in this form: shaped, beveled (if you use a bevel), folded and dry. (You can do several reeds in sequence by placing the next reed in the shot glass as you begin steaming the first one.)
3. Place dry cane, butt-first, in shot glass - water reaches only the level of the collar (end of bark) - water is warm
4. When water rises through the fibers to top of reed (3-4 minutes), reed is ready for steam opening.
5. Leaving space at butt for scoring, single wrap tube of reed with the soft cord, stopping at the collar and securing tightly with a loop. Score cane from butt-8 or 9 times-with a sharp blade.
6. Hold reed sides at back with pliers. Squeeze gently to start opening.
7. With pliers, hold butt of reed directly in strong flow of steam (steam goes inside tube of reed) for 15 to 30 seconds or until the opening at reed butt is as large as diameter of pointed awl tool (3/16"). During this operation, also heat the point of the awl in the steam; hold with your free hand.
8. Now move pliers slightly up the reed for a better grip (not past point of wire II) and gently ease back of reed onto the heated awl. The flat spots on the awl's point are facing up and down. While easing reed onto the awl, hold side of reed tube in the steam to keep reed hot and flexible. Push to the maximum insertion mark (if it slides this far without strain. If resistance is met, remove reed and awl from steam, use cloth to protect hands from heat, and gently push the reed the remaining distance - straight in, no turning of awl.)
9. Unwind cord from collar until there is a space for wire I. Place wire I - conform rather loosely but accurately to the shape of the tube. Do no pinch the cane at all. (final tightening occurs 24 hours later.)
10. Unwind a little more cord and place wire II - same method and precautions as wire I.
11. Allow remaining cord to stay on reed. Remove the awl. Insert regular short mandrel (straight in - no turning) until cane just separates in back.
12. Remove remainder of cord and place wire III. Use pliers to form cane fully around mandrel at back of reed.
13. Make file grooves on bark of cane between wires II and 111.
14. Wind on the strong nylon cord: from II to III moderately tightly, from III to butt very tightly. Make loop to fasten securely.
15. Let reed dry on mandrel (or mandrel pin of same size)24 hours. (After drying period, wire III should be loose as a result of cane shrinkage.)
16. Tighten all wires to suit (cane should not indent.)
17. Apply tube-binding wrap (string, plastic or other.)
18. Ream to fit bocal.
19. Put reed in warm water (shot glass) for one minute.
20. Cut tip of reed (don't open tip further at this stage.)
21. Allow to dry - one hour, or one day if you want more stability.
22. Soak in warm water for five minutes.
23. Trim.
Notes: