TWB V4.3: CARE OF THE BASSOON . . . THE IMPORTANCE OF REGULAR LUBRICATION

CARE OF THE BASSOON . . . THE IMPORTANCE OF REGULAR LUBRICATION

By Gerald E. Corey

Many bassoons suffer from neglect of any maintenance by the owner between annual visits to the repair shop. The results of this neglect are almost as detrimental to the life of the instrument as would be a failure to brush one's teeth between visits to the dentist! Not only is there a much quicker wear of the moving metal parts of the key work but there is also the build up of dust and dirt in keys and rollers (sometimes even in the tone holes, large and small). Rollers either become very noisy, or they become frozen tight with dirt and refuse to function. And the mechanism tends to fall out of adjustment, both from lack of lubrication and from the loosening of certain pivot screws caused by vibration occurring when the instrument is transported in the case.

This neglect is naturally more common with students new to the bassoon. But unfortunately many advanced students and professional bassoonists still fail to maintain basic lubrication and inspection of the mechanism of their instruments. For some, the cause is laziness and a disregard for the future health of the instrument. But for many, I find, it is a reverence for the complexity of the mechanism and a fear that if they take off any key, they'll never get it put back on right.

The purpose of this article is to allay any fears and to suggest an efficient procedure to service the mechanism and to keep the bassoon both clean and in excellent playing condition.

I recommend the following service every eight weeks during the year. (William Brannen, the well-known instrument repairer from Chicago, advises oboists to clean their instruments every day and to oil the mechanism every four weeks or less.)

Vacuum clean the inside of the case and the case cover also (inside and outside).
Remove all keys, lubricate and replace them according to the method given below.
Thoroughly dust the body of the instrument, particularly beneath all key mechanism areas.
Clean out every tone hole (paint brush for large holes, pipe cleaners (lint removed!) for smaller tone holes). Silver-lined tone holes may be cleaned with pipe cleaners, dipped (sparingly) in clean de-natured alcohol; do not use alcohol on any bare wood tone holes or on hard rubber liners.
Clean all keys, rods and other metal parts with a silver-polishing cloth.
Polish the lacquered finish of the wood body of the bassoon with a bassoon polishing cloth.

LUBRICATION PROCEDURE:

Tools and Materials needed

a. A pad or clean cloth for the work table. (A roomy, well-lighted work area is a must.)
b. A few small boxes (if you want) for temporary storage of keys with their pins or threaded rods.
c. Screwdrivers: at least three sizes, exactly fitting: 1) pivot screws, 2) threaded rods, and 3) small screws for the rollers. All screwdrivers should have swivel heads for ease of action. For pivot screws, it is best to use an extra long screwdriver to apply the necessary torque forces. This will also keep the screwdriver from slipping out of the screw head and scratching the wood finish of the bassoon--perhaps the most common damage caused to instruments by careless handling.
d. Small pliers with smooth jaws (for pulling out and replacing long rods and push pins).
e. Spring hook. (Make from a No. 2 crochet hook. File or saw a notch at the straight end for pushing springs.)
f. Cloth for wiping off pins, threaded rods, and ends of those rods receiving pivot screws.
g. Standard-sized pipe cleaners and de-natured alcohol(for cleaning metal lined tone holes).
h. New paint brush, one-inch wide (for brushing away dust from under keys and in larger tone holes).
i. Clock oil (purchase at jeweler's supply).
j. Light grease for the pivot screw points and for the rollers. Many good products are available. Vaseline (pure petroleum jelly) is used by many. I prefer a light, clean grease called "#ffffff Grease" (Panef Manufacturing Co., Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53218). It is very easy to work with (a small tube of it will fit easily in the bassoon case), it gives completely free action for all keys and rollers where applied, and it retains its consistency much longer than does vaseline.
k. Metal-polishing cloth.
l. Bassoon polishing cloth.

Lubricating Techniques:

1. Push-pins and long threaded rods.

(a) remove the pin or rod
(b) wipe pin or rod and ends of tube section with the cleaning cloth
(c) with a small screwdriver apply clock oil to one end of the tube section (the end which will receive the pin or rod first). I use 34 drops for long rods and 2 drops for shorter ones
(d) set the key and pin (or rod) on the table side-by-side and away from other keys, until time for replacing them on the instrument.

2. Rollers.

(a) remove the threaded pin which holds the roller in place
(b) wipe the pin clean
(c) apply 3 drops of grease to the end of the roller which receives the pin
(d) replace the roller and pin on the key at once.

3. Pivot screws and rods.

(a) Remove one pivot screw (in some cases it is also good to loosen the other pivot screw to ease removal of the key)
(b) Take key off the bassoon (see notes on handling of springs)
(c) wipe off any dirt or oil on point of pivot screw, and wipe ends of the rod with the cleaning cloth
(d) pack the two ends of the rod with grease: I apply 2 or 3 drops of grease and tap it flush against the end of the rod with a finger
(e) replace pivot screw in its post (tighten 3/4ths tight)
(f) set the rod on the table away from other keys until time for replacement on the bassoon.

4. Notes on handling of springs.

(i)

a. When removing keys with springs, first hold key firmly in place while unscrewing pivot screw or removing threaded rod.
b. Then release the free end of the key (or part) so the spring will move it away from the post.
c. Finally remove the key if it parts from the spring without binding - or, use the spring hook to gently release the spring, then remove the key.

(ii)

a. When replacing keys with springs attached (such as the long levers for low B1 and Bbl), first make sure the spring is exactly lined up with its resting plate or point on the bassoon; place the spring on this point first, then lower the key into position.
b. When replacing keys with springs attached to the post, some keys will slide easily into position and allow you to engage the spring on its "ledge" as the key comes to rest in its proper position.
c. Some keys may be returned to the bassoon and locked in place by pivot screw or threaded rod, followed by the setting of the spring in place with the spring hook (e.g. the high g1 resonance key on the boot joint).
d. Still other keys will require bringing the key partly into position, setting the spring with the spring hook, and then completing the positioning and securing of the key. Study each key replacement situation closely to determine which of these three methods will best suit that key.

Order of Lubrication:

1. Bell joint.

(a) Remove the low B-flat key . . . clean the pin . . . oil the tube (2 drops clock oil)
(b) replace the key on the bell . . . shine the key and metal band of the bell (and metal ring if fitted) . . . rub the wood finish of the bell with the bassoon polishing cloth . . . return the bell to the case. (Incidently, always keep the case closed except when actually removing or replacing a joint of the instrument. This will keep dust out of the case. For the same reason, follow this procedure when practicing or at rehearsals and concerts.)

2. Long joint.

(a) Remove the low B1 key . . . clean . . . grease the rod ends . . . set key aside for later assembly (the pivot screw is stored 3/4ths tightened in its post.)
(b) Remove the low B1 and B-flat1 lever arms . . . clean the pin . . . separate the arms . . . oil the hollow tubes . . . oil outside of inside sleeve for lever arms . . . put the lever arms together again as a unit . . . set keys aside and the pin beside them.
(c) Remove the low C key and the low D thumb touch piece (spatula) together by pulling both pins, then releasing the two keys as a unit (careful of corks) . . . clean pins . . . oil tubes of the keys . . . set aside with pins next to the keys.
(d) Remove low D key (with pad) . . . dust under key guard with brush . . . clean the pin . . . oil the tube . . . polish long joint with bassoon polishing cloth . . . be careful to avoid contact with springs . . . replace the key on the bassoon.
(e) Replace the low C key and low D touch piece together (as a unit): Start the correct pins in their posts but not extending all the way through them . . . place spring of low C key on its touch plate . . . place the curved connecting "arm" of the low D thumb touch piece under the thumb touch of the low C key . . . press down the low D key (with pad) to raise its rear arm upwards . . . then, lower the low C key and low D thumb touch piece together between their respective posts . . . push the pins through the tubes to lock keys in place.
(f) Replace low B1 and low B-flat 1 lever arms: place spring on its touch plate . . . lower the lever arms gently between the posts (watch ends of arms to assure that they slide smoothly between the guides).
(g) Replace the low B1 key.
(h) Remove the low E-flat key . . . clean the threaded rod . . . remove the roller . . . clean its pin . . . grease the roller . . . replace roller on key . . . pack vaseline or white grease into the tube of this key (to dampen noise) . . . set key and threaded rod aside.
(i) Remove the low C# key (with pad) . . . clean and grease the rod ends . . . set key aside.
(j) Remove the low C# finger touch piece . . . remove roller . . . clean its pin . . . grease the roller . . . replace roller on key . . . clean and grease the rod ends.
(k) Replace the low C# finger touch piece.
(I) Replace the low C# key (with pad).
(m) Replace the low E-flat key.
(n) Polish the metal work and go over the wood again with the bassoon polishing cloth . . . return the long joint to the case.

3. Wing joint.

(a) Remove whisper key (long rod with pad) . . . clean and grease rod ends . . . set key aside.
(b) Remove the high c'' and d'' keys (together as a unit): hold both keys in place . . . pull out both pins . . . slowly release keys . . . clean pins . . . oil tubes of each key . . . set keys aside with pins next to the correct keys.
(c) Remove high a' key . . . clean the pin . . . oil the tube . . . set key aside with its pin beside it.
(d) Remove the thumb C# key . . . clean the pin . . . oil the tube . . . set key aside with its pin beside it.
(e) Remove rod with ''fingers'' actuated by the thumb C# key and the high c'' key . . . clean and grease rod ends . . . set key aside.
(f) Remove whisper key's thumb touch piece . . . clean pin . . . oil the tube . . . set key aside with its pin beside it.
(g) Remove long rod with connecting bridge to the low E key . . . clean and grease rod ends. . . set key aside.
(h) Remove high b' resonance key (c#/d# trill) . . . clean and grease rod ends . . . set key aside.
(i) (If bassoon is fitted with a d/e-flat trill key, remove key . . . clean and grease rod end . . . replace key in proper sequence to avoid having to remove any other key so as to make room for it.)
(j) Remove ring key (for left hand 3) . . . brush out dust from the groove in the wood . . . thoroughly wipe off the ring, removing all foreign matter (especially on underside of ring) . . . clean the threaded rod . . . oil the tube . . . set key aside with rod beside it.
(k) Remove f# trill key (or g trill (high e'' and f# trill keys as a a unit if they are so fitted) . . . clean the threaded rod . . . oil the tube(s) . . . set key aside with rod beside it. (Polish the wing joint with bassoon polishing cloth . . . be careful to avoid contact with the springs.)
(l) Replace the f# trill key (or gtrill and f# trill keys together if fitted).
(m) Replace the ring key.
(n) Replace the high b' resonance key.
(o) Replace the whisper key thumb touch piece.
(p) Replace the long rod with connecting bridge to the low E key.
(q) Replace the rod with 'fingers' for the thumb c# and high c'' keys.
(r) Replace the thumb c# key.
(s) Replace the high a' key.
(t) Replace the high c'' and d'' keys (as a unit): push the correct pins into their posts, ready to push in place when keys are in position . . . set springs on their touch plates (first the d'' key spring then the c'' key spring) . . . position the ends of the keys between their guides . . . lower the keys as a unit between their respective posts . . . push pins in to lock keys in place.
(u) Replace the long whisper key (with pad).
(v) Swab out the bore of the wing joint to remove any dust left there when the tone holes were cleaned.
(w) Polish the metal work, and go over the wood again with the bassoon polishing cloth . . . return the wing joint to the case.

4. Boot joint.

(a) Remove high g' resonance key . . . clean and grease rod ends . . . set key aside.
(b) Remove the c# trill key (and any additional trill keys fitted . . . replace them in order) . . . clean the pin (or rod) . . . oil the tube . . . set key(s) aside.
(c) Remove the alternate B-flat key (B-flat trill key) . . . remove the low G finger touch plate and rod (it may be helpful to loosen the pivot screw and to release the spring before removing this key) . . . clean the threaded rod . . . oil the tube (alternate B-flat key) . . . set key aside with rod beside it . . . clean and grease rod ends (low G finger touch plate) . . . set key aside.
(d) Remove the low A-flat key . . . caution: hold key firmly in place untill pivot screw is out and spring has been released . . . remove roller . . . clean pin . . . grease roller . . . replace roller on key . . . clean and grease rod ends . . . set key aside (remember to store the pivot screw in its post).
(e) Remove low F key (with pad) . . . clean the threaded rod . . . oil the tube . . . set key aside with rod beside it.
(f) Remove little finger f# key (if pin fails to clear the low F mechanism easily, reverse steps (f) and (g) ) . . . remove roller (if fitted) . . . clean pin . . . grease roller . . . replace roller on key . . . clean pin for the key . . . oil the tube . . . set key aside with pin beside it.
(g) Remove low F finger touch piece . . . remove roller . . . clean pin . . . grease roller . . . replace roller on key . . . clean and grease rod ends . . . set key aside.
(h) Every second servicing (16 week intervals): remove each hard rubber rod (connecting mechanisms from the back of the boot joint . . . wipe with a completely clean (not oily) cloth . . . blow out the receiving hole . . . replace the rod. (Do one at a time and replace it: it is easy to put the wrong rubber rod in a given hole.)
(i) (Polish the top of the boot joint with the bassson polishing cloth . . . be careful to avoid contact witht the springs.)
(j) Replace low F finger touch piece.
(k) Replace little finger f# key.
(l) Replace low F key (with pad).
(m) Replace low A-flat key.
(n) Replace low G finger touch plate and replace the alternate B-flat key (B-flat trill key).
(o) Replace the c# trill key (and any other trill keys fitted).
(p) Lightly oil the whisper key lock (do not dis-assemble) . . . (If the whisper key lock is fitted on the wing joint, it should of course be lubricated at the same time as the other wing joint keys.)
(q) Remove the low E key . . . remove, clean and grease and roller fitted. . . replace roller(s) . . . clean and grease rod ends .. . set key aside.
(r) Remove B-flat thumb touch piece . . . clean threaded rod . . . oil the tube (or pack with vaseline to dampen noice) . . . (service the roller as above, if fitted . . . replace roller) . . . set key aside with rod beside it.
(s) Remove B-flat key (with pad) . . . clean the threaded rod . . . oil the tube (or pack with vaseline to dampen noise) . . . set key aside with rod beside it.
(t) Remove low G key (with pad) . . . clean the threaded rod . . . oil the tube . . . set key aside with rod beside it.
(u) Remove rocker arm mechanism connecting alternate A-flat key with the A-flat key (top of boot joint) . . . (or, if fitted, remove the alternate A-flat key (with pad) - lubricate and set aside) . . . clean threaded rod . . . oil the tube . . . set rocker arm aside with rod beside it.
(v) Remove alternate A-flat key thumb touch and rod . . . clean and grease the rod ends . . (remove and lubricate any roller fitted . . . replace roller on key) . . . set key aside.
(w) Remove rocker arm mechanism connecting the thumb F# key with the low F key (top of boot joint) . . . clean the pin . . . oil the tube . . . set the rocker arm aside with pin beside it.
(x) Remove the low F# thumb key . . . remove roller . . . clean pin . . . grease roller . . . replace roller on key . . . clean and grease rod ends . . . set key aside. (If an A-flat/B-flat trill key is installed, it should be removed and serviced prior to the thumb F# key, and it should be replace after the thumb F# key.)
(y) Polish the bottom of the boot joint with the bassoon polishing cloth . . . be careful to avoid contact with the springs.
(z) Replace the low F# thumb key.
(aa) Replace the rocker arm mechanism for the low F# thumb key.
(bb) Replace alternate A-flat key thumb touch.
(cc) Replace rocker arm mechanism for alternate A-flat key connection.
(dd) Replace the low G key (with pad).
(ee) Replace the B-flat key (with pad).
(ff) Replace the B-flat thumb touch piece (lift the connecting arm of the B-flat key while fitting the B-flat thumb touch piece . . . this will protect the corks.
(gg) Replace the low E key. (Be sure to brush out any dust from under th low E key thumb plate and under the guard for the B-flat key (with pad) ).
(hh) Polish the metal work of the entire boot joint, and go over the wood again with the bassoon polishing cloth.
(ii) Swab out both sides of the boot joint bore (with a completely dry swab) to remove any dust or other foreign matter left there during the cleaning of all tone holes. Return the boot joint to the case. The lubrication is completed.

Additional comments about bassoon care.

1. Bocals in use should be cleaned often (some bassoonists prefer specially made bocal brushes, but I like to use: three standard pipe cleaners joined into one long cleaner by twisting the ends tightly). Fold over the end of the first pipe cleaner . . . moisten the end (only) with warm water . . . rub the end of the cleaner over a piece of hand soap . . . gently insert the cleaner from the reed end of the bocal (be sure not to force the cleaner into the delicate small end of the bocal . . . even greater care must be taken in the case of D-metal (thin) bocals) . . . pass the cleaner one time only through the entire length of the bocal, twist it in one direction continuously while passing it through. Rinse the bocal out with warm water (use a small funnel at the large end of the bocal to avoid wetting the cork or the string binding of the bocal) . . . add three or four drops of a pleasant oral antiseptic solution to kill a few more germs and to leave a nice smell to the bocal.

2. In future issues of To The World's Bassoonists we will discuss other aspects of bassoon care, such as when the bore should be oiled (and how), common adjustment problems, etc.