Topic: Open reeds

Hello all.  I'm looking for suggestions on getting my reeds a little more closed.  I'm going through a period of consistently open reeds, really open! Now, before I get lots of replies like, "change your gouge," "you need to use a different shape," "or try pinching them closed;" I'm looking for a little more specific answers.  i.e. the sides of the gouge should be thinner/thicker, try thinning the gouge completely,  try using a longer slope into the reed, ect.  I've actually experimented with most of these things, but I'm hoping I might get some fresh ideas.  You can respond here or to beseals73@gmail.com.

Thanks,
Barrett

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Re: Open reeds

Hallo Barrett,

Since nobody seems to have answered yet, I try some comments, but with a european scrape things may be different:

1) An advice I got from an oboist from Munich (Wollenweber student): after binding a reed to a staple, let it dry and rest for at least a week before cutting it open and finishing the scrape - otherwise you may not be able to control the opening.

2) My first teacher here in Berlin would close the opening of a new reed with his fingers, then heat it in the flame of a cigaret lighter (careful, don't burn the wood), and suck on the staple to press it further together

In my own experience, I remove the bark after binding the reed on the staple and then let it dry for a day (that seems to be enough). If it is still too open, I use the cigaret lighter, usually before every rehearsal or practice session, maybe even repeatedly. You may also use such a reed to practise scales up into the 3rd octave - initially it may wear you out quickly, but after a few days max it will usually become a very nice reed.

However there have also been batches of reeds that just collapsed after a day or two - good riddance!

Hope there is something new to try - Nikolaus

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Re: Open reeds

Barrett,

This is  what I do. I get the reed so it makes a hard-to-blow crow at D then I  let it dry overnite. Following day, I  scrape miniscule amounts from the  blend between the back of the tip & the beginning of the plateau (in the "holler" to quote John Mack). I pinch the reed (see Kerry Willingham's website for a  video on how  to do  this…I pinch in two places just as he does) then I crow it. Nine times out of  ten, I get a three octave crow in C or C# & then I play the little %&*)#@ to extinction, while at the  same time  starting on another reed. I suppose you could go to 10.5-11.0 mm diameter tube cane; reeds made from this  stock close very rapidly, I've found. I gouge with a Dan Ross gouger & use mostly 10.3 mm diameter tube  cane (Rigotti & RDG bargain cane. I'd buy Grimaud but David Weber is has been out of that stuff  for  a long  time)with the David Weber 1B shaper tip. I  scrape with a  Delta jointer blade which  I keep sharp using a Speedy Sharp & a burnisher. I finish the tip with the Neilsen wedge knive ("Neilsen knife") which I  sharpen using the  scary  sharp method, crock  sticks & burnisher.

Best,

john

Best,

john

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